There is a destiny that makes us brothers, no one goes his way alone; all that we send into the lives of others, comes back into our own.
- Edwin Markham
Ek wil net sommer vrek baie dankie se vir Duane! Bru, it was awesome to share all the sights, frustrations, challenges, tough roads, bike fixing and all other experiences with you for the past 3.5 months! Dis vrek cool om 'n buddy te he om al hierdie great goed saam met mens te doen en te deel!!! Maksimale wardering!!!
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Die home stretch
Ja nee, dis regtig ook tyd vir my om die trip se gebeure vir my ywerige volgelinge aftesluit. Ek meen, ek is alklaar weer op 'n ander kontinent en julle is steeds in die donker... Jammer, ek het bietjie afgeskeep, maar ek sal my bes probeer om julle volledig op hoogte te bring!
Laat ek eers ook gou raak aan die stats (dit wat, natuurlik, vreeslik naby aan enige aktuaris se hart is):
- Valle = 6 elk! (Ons het gelukkig ons valle klaar geval in Noord Kenya)
- Punctures: ek dink hierdie is naby aan 20, of ten minste voel dit so!
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 19 000 kms (Offroad = +/- 6 500 kms)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = steeds is dit onmoontlik om te bepaal, maar weet net dit was baie, vrek baie.
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 31 uur (die goeie ou Noord Mosambiek grenspos was ons ergste - ons moes sowat 3 uur voor die kleihuisie sit en wag vir beter dae. Jy het nog nooit Afrika tyd so ekstreem beleef nie!)
- Siektes en kwale = Ek dink regtig ons kan dankie se vir die Here se beskerming. My Zanzibar maagparasiet was heel hanteerbaar as mens na die groter prentjie kyk.
- Huidige posisie: Londen, UK
- Volgende bestemming: New York, VSA (soos julle kan agterkom gaan my avonture nog bietjie voort!)
Eintlik het Duane julle heel goed ingelig omtrent ons laaste 2 weke se reis. Soos hy gese het, het ons ysterperde begin stal ruik die laaste paar dae. So, ons het nogal beweeg en nie doekies omgedraai nie! Dit was baie lekker om ook saam met Fernando, die Spanjaard, te kon toer. Dit het lekker aan die dinamika verander en sy bietjie Portugees het ook handig te pas gekom in Mosambiek. Hy kom hopelik volgende jaar bietjie 2010 Sokker kyk saam met 'n paar vriende, so hopelik ontmoet van julle hom dan! Hy is altyd keen vir 'n lekker partytjie!
Mosambiek self was ook lekker, alhoewel kort. In die noorde het ons duisende kilometers gery waar daar net niks was nie. Dis nogal skrikkerig om te beleef hoe min aangaan op party plekke in Afrika!
The journey gives meaning to the destination. -Ken Duncun-
Ilha de Mozambique, waar ons die Spanjaard gevang het, was baie mooi gewees. Hierdie ou Portegeese handelroete hoofstad het 'n unieke gevoel. Mens kon jou nogal regtig inleef in hoe dit moes gewees het 'n paar honderd jaar terug. Dis dan ook hier Mosambiek se legendariese seekos behoorlik op die proef gestel was. Die hoogtepunt was verseker die +/- 4kg kreef wat die 'local fishermen' aan ons verkwansel het vir 'n appel en uit wat toe net so op die strand gebraai is. Hierdie meneer het oorgenoeg vleis in sy stert gehad vir omtrent 6 mense!! O, en dit was vreeslik lekker gewees!
Ons voorlaaste stop op Vilankulo was ook nie 'n teleurstelling nie. 'n Goeie dag se snorkel en son het toe ons seevakansie afgesluit voor ons paaie geskei het in Maputo.
Ek is vreeslik bevoorreg met goeie vriende wat vir my 'n blyplek gaatjie oopgelos het vir volgende jaar met my terugkeer na Bloubul wereld. Deel van die rede vir die laaste paar dae se resies huis toe was dan ook om die nuwe huis se inweidingsaand in Pretoria te kon meemaak. Ek het geweet daar is 'n klomp goeie vriende daar bymekaar en die plan was om as 'n 'surprise' daar aantekom.
Die enigste probleem was net dat daar regtig niks oor was van my agterband nie en ek het voorwaar nie geweet of ek Pretoria gaan maak nie. So, my plan in Maputo was om die band te vervang op Nelspruit. Wel, dit het toe ook nie so uitgewerk nie. Die SA / Mosambiek grenspos was absolute chaos!! Toe ek 4 ure later deur die hekke is het ek besef ek sal die kans moet vat en deurdruk Pretoria toe - aangesien die winkels vroeg toegemaak het op die Saterdag.
Baie stadig en versigtig ry ek toe in die geel lyne teen 80km/h Pretoors toe. Die dinge het goedgegaan tot en met Middelburg - want met die petrol ingooi by die Shell ultra sien ek dat ek 'n flat het op my agterwiel. Sonder enige tyre tools (hierdie was alles saam met Duane) sit ek toe gestrand, 130km kort!! So ek het dit net-net nie gemaak nie...
My enigste opsie was toe om lifts vir my en die bike te bedel by elke verbykomende bakkie. Die meeste ouens het gedink ek is 'n bedelaar en my heeltemal geignoreer vir die eerste 3 min totdat my storie vir hulle begin oortuig het hoekom ek in so hawelose, sleg ruikende toestand gelaat is. Gelukkig het ek genoeg simpatie by Michael, 'n kragstasie bouer, gevind en hom oortuig gekry om my te gaan aflaai by die partytjie! Dit was great gewees, dankie Michael!
Niemand het die aankoms verwag nie en dit was 'n gesig om almal se verbaasde gesigsuitdrukkens te beleef toe hulle die vuil, Afrika-wegloopkind met vertrae reaksies herken. Ek het ook natuurlik heeltemal die bewerasies gehad van al die opwinding! Dit was net great gewees !! :) Ai, mens besef dam hoe kosbaar jou mense en vriende vir jou is as jy eers so lank weg van hulle af was!!
Time you enjoy wasting, was not wasted. -John Lennon-
Nou ja, so het die 'epic adventure' ook tot 'n einde gekom. Ek kan nie glo dis verby nie... Dit was werklik 'n ongelooflike voorreg om alles te kon beleef en net God se Afrika skepping so 1e hands te kon beleef!! WOW!!! Dit was absoluut die moeite werd gewees!!
No pessimist ever discovered the secret of the stars, or sailed to an uncharted land, or opened a new doorway for the human spirit. -Helen Keller-
Ek wil net by Duane aansluit en vir julle dankie se vir al die sms'e, ander terugvoer en gebed. Ons het regtig die Here se seen, beskerming en guns keer op keer met die trippie beleef. Ek dink ons glo ook albei dat ons baie geleer het en dat dit nie net gemorsde tyd was nie. Ek dink ek gaan eers later besef waar ek die lessies kan toepas wat ek met die 2009 ysterperd trip geleer het.
En nou sit ek weer in London. Die anderkant van die wereld, die 1e wereld op sy sogenaamde beste. Ek sien baie uit vir die kuiers en ervarings wat nog voorle... Moontlik hou ek julle sommer met 'n blog update so vinnig op hoogte :)
Lou-Ann se flat uitsig in Londen:
Jowyk
Laat ek eers ook gou raak aan die stats (dit wat, natuurlik, vreeslik naby aan enige aktuaris se hart is):
- Valle = 6 elk! (Ons het gelukkig ons valle klaar geval in Noord Kenya)
- Punctures: ek dink hierdie is naby aan 20, of ten minste voel dit so!
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 19 000 kms (Offroad = +/- 6 500 kms)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = steeds is dit onmoontlik om te bepaal, maar weet net dit was baie, vrek baie.
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 31 uur (die goeie ou Noord Mosambiek grenspos was ons ergste - ons moes sowat 3 uur voor die kleihuisie sit en wag vir beter dae. Jy het nog nooit Afrika tyd so ekstreem beleef nie!)
- Siektes en kwale = Ek dink regtig ons kan dankie se vir die Here se beskerming. My Zanzibar maagparasiet was heel hanteerbaar as mens na die groter prentjie kyk.
- Huidige posisie: Londen, UK
- Volgende bestemming: New York, VSA (soos julle kan agterkom gaan my avonture nog bietjie voort!)
Eintlik het Duane julle heel goed ingelig omtrent ons laaste 2 weke se reis. Soos hy gese het, het ons ysterperde begin stal ruik die laaste paar dae. So, ons het nogal beweeg en nie doekies omgedraai nie! Dit was baie lekker om ook saam met Fernando, die Spanjaard, te kon toer. Dit het lekker aan die dinamika verander en sy bietjie Portugees het ook handig te pas gekom in Mosambiek. Hy kom hopelik volgende jaar bietjie 2010 Sokker kyk saam met 'n paar vriende, so hopelik ontmoet van julle hom dan! Hy is altyd keen vir 'n lekker partytjie!
Mosambiek self was ook lekker, alhoewel kort. In die noorde het ons duisende kilometers gery waar daar net niks was nie. Dis nogal skrikkerig om te beleef hoe min aangaan op party plekke in Afrika!
The journey gives meaning to the destination. -Ken Duncun-
Ilha de Mozambique, waar ons die Spanjaard gevang het, was baie mooi gewees. Hierdie ou Portegeese handelroete hoofstad het 'n unieke gevoel. Mens kon jou nogal regtig inleef in hoe dit moes gewees het 'n paar honderd jaar terug. Dis dan ook hier Mosambiek se legendariese seekos behoorlik op die proef gestel was. Die hoogtepunt was verseker die +/- 4kg kreef wat die 'local fishermen' aan ons verkwansel het vir 'n appel en uit wat toe net so op die strand gebraai is. Hierdie meneer het oorgenoeg vleis in sy stert gehad vir omtrent 6 mense!! O, en dit was vreeslik lekker gewees!
Ons voorlaaste stop op Vilankulo was ook nie 'n teleurstelling nie. 'n Goeie dag se snorkel en son het toe ons seevakansie afgesluit voor ons paaie geskei het in Maputo.
Ek is vreeslik bevoorreg met goeie vriende wat vir my 'n blyplek gaatjie oopgelos het vir volgende jaar met my terugkeer na Bloubul wereld. Deel van die rede vir die laaste paar dae se resies huis toe was dan ook om die nuwe huis se inweidingsaand in Pretoria te kon meemaak. Ek het geweet daar is 'n klomp goeie vriende daar bymekaar en die plan was om as 'n 'surprise' daar aantekom.
Die enigste probleem was net dat daar regtig niks oor was van my agterband nie en ek het voorwaar nie geweet of ek Pretoria gaan maak nie. So, my plan in Maputo was om die band te vervang op Nelspruit. Wel, dit het toe ook nie so uitgewerk nie. Die SA / Mosambiek grenspos was absolute chaos!! Toe ek 4 ure later deur die hekke is het ek besef ek sal die kans moet vat en deurdruk Pretoria toe - aangesien die winkels vroeg toegemaak het op die Saterdag.
Baie stadig en versigtig ry ek toe in die geel lyne teen 80km/h Pretoors toe. Die dinge het goedgegaan tot en met Middelburg - want met die petrol ingooi by die Shell ultra sien ek dat ek 'n flat het op my agterwiel. Sonder enige tyre tools (hierdie was alles saam met Duane) sit ek toe gestrand, 130km kort!! So ek het dit net-net nie gemaak nie...
My enigste opsie was toe om lifts vir my en die bike te bedel by elke verbykomende bakkie. Die meeste ouens het gedink ek is 'n bedelaar en my heeltemal geignoreer vir die eerste 3 min totdat my storie vir hulle begin oortuig het hoekom ek in so hawelose, sleg ruikende toestand gelaat is. Gelukkig het ek genoeg simpatie by Michael, 'n kragstasie bouer, gevind en hom oortuig gekry om my te gaan aflaai by die partytjie! Dit was great gewees, dankie Michael!
Niemand het die aankoms verwag nie en dit was 'n gesig om almal se verbaasde gesigsuitdrukkens te beleef toe hulle die vuil, Afrika-wegloopkind met vertrae reaksies herken. Ek het ook natuurlik heeltemal die bewerasies gehad van al die opwinding! Dit was net great gewees !! :) Ai, mens besef dam hoe kosbaar jou mense en vriende vir jou is as jy eers so lank weg van hulle af was!!
Time you enjoy wasting, was not wasted. -John Lennon-
Nou ja, so het die 'epic adventure' ook tot 'n einde gekom. Ek kan nie glo dis verby nie... Dit was werklik 'n ongelooflike voorreg om alles te kon beleef en net God se Afrika skepping so 1e hands te kon beleef!! WOW!!! Dit was absoluut die moeite werd gewees!!
No pessimist ever discovered the secret of the stars, or sailed to an uncharted land, or opened a new doorway for the human spirit. -Helen Keller-
Ek wil net by Duane aansluit en vir julle dankie se vir al die sms'e, ander terugvoer en gebed. Ons het regtig die Here se seen, beskerming en guns keer op keer met die trippie beleef. Ek dink ons glo ook albei dat ons baie geleer het en dat dit nie net gemorsde tyd was nie. Ek dink ek gaan eers later besef waar ek die lessies kan toepas wat ek met die 2009 ysterperd trip geleer het.
En nou sit ek weer in London. Die anderkant van die wereld, die 1e wereld op sy sogenaamde beste. Ek sien baie uit vir die kuiers en ervarings wat nog voorle... Moontlik hou ek julle sommer met 'n blog update so vinnig op hoogte :)
Lou-Ann se flat uitsig in Londen:
Jowyk
Monday, September 28, 2009
Round Trip Completed - 19000 km
I completed the last leg of the trip from Manzini, Swaziland to Durban on Saturday.
Total mileage accumulated :19000 km (of which roughly 6500 km was off road)
Average fuel consumption : 25km/l or 4l/100km.
Petrol Used : 760l
The stats above are close approximations and will vary slightly for Joe's bike and round trip taken from Pretoria.
Total mileage accumulated :19000 km (of which roughly 6500 km was off road)
Average fuel consumption : 25km/l or 4l/100km.
Petrol Used : 760l
The stats above are close approximations and will vary slightly for Joe's bike and round trip taken from Pretoria.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Zanzibar to Mozambique - drawing to a close
Ola!
For those who could not make out the last afrikaans posting, I'll summarise (I've added in more details as well) our trip from Zanzibar to Mozambique.
After our trip to Zanzi, Joe and I both felt like we were ready to return home, after almost 3 months of biking. Only 4000km from Maputo, it felt as though we were in the home straight (at least with some hard riding.)
Our first goal was to cross the Rovuma River in N.Mozambique, where the official ferry sunk a while back. We managed to bargain for a small boat to carry the 2 bikes, ourselves and a few crew to help lift the bikes. The crossing was shady to say the least, I don't think any insurance company would endorse the 'shipping' company we employed! We completed the crossing at 17:30 and had to camp on the river bank before crossing the Mozam immigration the following day.
We then raced on to Ilha de Mocambique where we were catch the spaniard biker, Fernando, whom we had met in Nairobi - our plan was to accompany him to Maputo. At this point Joe and I weren't really interested in any detours, both we and the bikes were feeling tired. Joe had a bit of a radiator leak and his back tire tread was starting to reveal itself more, with each km! My bike was suffering from an oil leak from the front sprocket and required an oil top up every so often. Fernando was quite keen to checkout Gurue which was a bit of a detour - after much negotiation we went off to Gurue which added to the adventure and was worth it. We then headed to Vilanculos approx 1400km in 2 days - full throttle. We had another day rest there - snorkelling on the Bazaruto reef and a picnic on the island. Next day we were back on the bikes and headed for Maputo, the last night as a team (Fernando,Joe and myself). All quite an abrupt ending as we arrived late in the evening. Saturday we were up at sparrows and Joe and I parted, separate ways. Thanks Joe, it was legendary bro, so many good times.
Update on Joe: he arrived back home late last evening, just in time for his house warming in Irene, Pretoria. The border crossing into R.S.A and his rear tire added to the adventure - he will have to fill in on that if he gets time.
I am currently in Swaziland at my folks place, I'll be here until the end of the week, before completing the final leg of the trip, back to Umdloti beach, Durban.
On behalf of the ysterperd soldate we would like to thank one and all for joining us on the trip. We do not take the opportunity we had for granted and are grateful for all of the experiences and things we learned. Hopefully we will be able to share it with you in more detail in the near future. Thankyou all especially for your prayers and support - on a number of occasions we experienced God's provision in difficult situations.
For those who could not make out the last afrikaans posting, I'll summarise (I've added in more details as well) our trip from Zanzibar to Mozambique.
After our trip to Zanzi, Joe and I both felt like we were ready to return home, after almost 3 months of biking. Only 4000km from Maputo, it felt as though we were in the home straight (at least with some hard riding.)
Our first goal was to cross the Rovuma River in N.Mozambique, where the official ferry sunk a while back. We managed to bargain for a small boat to carry the 2 bikes, ourselves and a few crew to help lift the bikes. The crossing was shady to say the least, I don't think any insurance company would endorse the 'shipping' company we employed! We completed the crossing at 17:30 and had to camp on the river bank before crossing the Mozam immigration the following day.
We then raced on to Ilha de Mocambique where we were catch the spaniard biker, Fernando, whom we had met in Nairobi - our plan was to accompany him to Maputo. At this point Joe and I weren't really interested in any detours, both we and the bikes were feeling tired. Joe had a bit of a radiator leak and his back tire tread was starting to reveal itself more, with each km! My bike was suffering from an oil leak from the front sprocket and required an oil top up every so often. Fernando was quite keen to checkout Gurue which was a bit of a detour - after much negotiation we went off to Gurue which added to the adventure and was worth it. We then headed to Vilanculos approx 1400km in 2 days - full throttle. We had another day rest there - snorkelling on the Bazaruto reef and a picnic on the island. Next day we were back on the bikes and headed for Maputo, the last night as a team (Fernando,Joe and myself). All quite an abrupt ending as we arrived late in the evening. Saturday we were up at sparrows and Joe and I parted, separate ways. Thanks Joe, it was legendary bro, so many good times.
Update on Joe: he arrived back home late last evening, just in time for his house warming in Irene, Pretoria. The border crossing into R.S.A and his rear tire added to the adventure - he will have to fill in on that if he gets time.
I am currently in Swaziland at my folks place, I'll be here until the end of the week, before completing the final leg of the trip, back to Umdloti beach, Durban.
On behalf of the ysterperd soldate we would like to thank one and all for joining us on the trip. We do not take the opportunity we had for granted and are grateful for all of the experiences and things we learned. Hopefully we will be able to share it with you in more detail in the near future. Thankyou all especially for your prayers and support - on a number of occasions we experienced God's provision in difficult situations.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Zanzibar na Mosambiek
Hi Almal!
Sorrie oor die Afrikaans en die haastige update wat moontlik sonder fotoºs gaan wees (tensy ons dit later byvoeg), maar ding is so effe gejaagd. Nietemin wil ek julle graag so vinnig op hoogte bring...
Eerstens gaan dit nog goed en ons is steeds aan die beweeg Suid, daar waar die huis is. Ek en Duane het die laaste paar dae al begin vir mekaar se dat ons nou maar by die huis kan kom. Ek dink ons is eensgevoel dat ons ongelooflike ervarings gedeel het en dat ons dalk vir versadig is aan paste, noodles, kamp en moontlik self perdry (ek vermoed wel dat laasgenoemde van korteduur is). Ek dink selfs ons twee ysterperde stem saam. Die rygoed het ºn paar skete en gee kreune van ´genoeg gehad´ teen die bulte op. My perd het ºn kroniese water lek op die radiator en Duane sin lek olie vanaf die sprocket seel. So, in kort, is die laaste gedeelte van die missie nou om by die huis te kom, hopelik in een stuk!
Op die oomblik sit ons in Gurue, sowat 2 000 km noord van Maputo, steeds in die middel van nerens.
Soos Duane genoem het, was Zanzibar great! Die turquise blou waters en koraal wit sand skep so romantiese atmosfeer dat ek myself moes keer om nie Duane se hand te gryp nie ;) Elk geval, dit was goed!
Ongelukkig het ek wel ºn parasiet opgetel wat my nagrut op die ferry en die volgende 2 dae se ry minder aangenaam gemaak het. Maar met ºn goeie skop van antibiotika is die outjie ook dood.
Sorrie oor die Afrikaans en die haastige update wat moontlik sonder fotoºs gaan wees (tensy ons dit later byvoeg), maar ding is so effe gejaagd. Nietemin wil ek julle graag so vinnig op hoogte bring...
Eerstens gaan dit nog goed en ons is steeds aan die beweeg Suid, daar waar die huis is. Ek en Duane het die laaste paar dae al begin vir mekaar se dat ons nou maar by die huis kan kom. Ek dink ons is eensgevoel dat ons ongelooflike ervarings gedeel het en dat ons dalk vir versadig is aan paste, noodles, kamp en moontlik self perdry (ek vermoed wel dat laasgenoemde van korteduur is). Ek dink selfs ons twee ysterperde stem saam. Die rygoed het ºn paar skete en gee kreune van ´genoeg gehad´ teen die bulte op. My perd het ºn kroniese water lek op die radiator en Duane sin lek olie vanaf die sprocket seel. So, in kort, is die laaste gedeelte van die missie nou om by die huis te kom, hopelik in een stuk!
Op die oomblik sit ons in Gurue, sowat 2 000 km noord van Maputo, steeds in die middel van nerens.
Soos Duane genoem het, was Zanzibar great! Die turquise blou waters en koraal wit sand skep so romantiese atmosfeer dat ek myself moes keer om nie Duane se hand te gryp nie ;) Elk geval, dit was goed!
Ongelukkig het ek wel ºn parasiet opgetel wat my nagrut op die ferry en die volgende 2 dae se ry minder aangenaam gemaak het. Maar met ºn goeie skop van antibiotika is die outjie ook dood.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Tanzanian coastline & Zanzibar
We made a bit of meal of getting to the east coast from Nairobi. A wrong turn, and hasty tube repair delayed our arrival at the east coast. Fortunately we were able to get 2 spare front tubes in Mombassa - so grateful for Fred, one of the local policemen for pointing us to the right shop as downtown Mombassa is a crazy place and I would have had no idea where to start looking for a tube.
We then headed to a place called Peponi beach, on the N. coast of Tanzania. It had a great campsite and there are a few coral reefs close by. We took a dow and sailed about 3 km offshore to explore the coral and fish - a nice outing.
From Peponi beach we headed straight for Sunrise beach on the south side of Dar. We left our bikes there and caught the cheapest ferry, called 'The Flying Horse', to Zanzibar. The Flying Horse is by no means fast and it took us about 3 hours to the 70km crossing.
Joe and I arrived in Stone Town and decided we'd rent 'The flying mule', a Honda 250cc motorbike to cart us and our luggage around the Island. On Friday morning we rode up to the N. of the island to a town called Nungwi. Its probably the most commercialised place we've been to thoughout our trip - picturesque beaches though, a wide range of shades of turquise waters and white beaches. We then moved to the east coast yesterday and are about to board The Flying Mule - back to Stone Town and Sunrise beach.
We then headed to a place called Peponi beach, on the N. coast of Tanzania. It had a great campsite and there are a few coral reefs close by. We took a dow and sailed about 3 km offshore to explore the coral and fish - a nice outing.
From Peponi beach we headed straight for Sunrise beach on the south side of Dar. We left our bikes there and caught the cheapest ferry, called 'The Flying Horse', to Zanzibar. The Flying Horse is by no means fast and it took us about 3 hours to the 70km crossing.
Joe and I arrived in Stone Town and decided we'd rent 'The flying mule', a Honda 250cc motorbike to cart us and our luggage around the Island. On Friday morning we rode up to the N. of the island to a town called Nungwi. Its probably the most commercialised place we've been to thoughout our trip - picturesque beaches though, a wide range of shades of turquise waters and white beaches. We then moved to the east coast yesterday and are about to board The Flying Mule - back to Stone Town and Sunrise beach.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Where2 from here?
I've had a number of requests for an itinerary. Our plans up to this point have been very flexible, but Jo and I have to be back before the 28th of Sept. I start work on this date and Jo flies out that evening to the UK.
We are currently in Nairobi, staying at jungle junction, waiting for the valve clearances on my bike engine to be adjusted - this should be done by the end of the day.
We plan to cut east to Mombassa and then south to Shimoni, Dar and then spend a few days in Zanzibar. We will then continue along the coastline and cross the Rovuma river, from Tanzania into N.Mozambique. The ferry that crosses the Rovuma sank some time back, but the locals are well skilled in 'making a plan' to get vehicles across. We spoke to some travellers yesterday who made the crossing recently. The locals put 3 med sized fishing boats together, built some ramps for the vehicle to ride onto the boats and the crossing was seemless.
I plan on riding back to Durban through SD where I will visit my folks - dates are not certain.
We are currently in Nairobi, staying at jungle junction, waiting for the valve clearances on my bike engine to be adjusted - this should be done by the end of the day.
We plan to cut east to Mombassa and then south to Shimoni, Dar and then spend a few days in Zanzibar. We will then continue along the coastline and cross the Rovuma river, from Tanzania into N.Mozambique. The ferry that crosses the Rovuma sank some time back, but the locals are well skilled in 'making a plan' to get vehicles across. We spoke to some travellers yesterday who made the crossing recently. The locals put 3 med sized fishing boats together, built some ramps for the vehicle to ride onto the boats and the crossing was seemless.
I plan on riding back to Durban through SD where I will visit my folks - dates are not certain.
Episode 3: Terug na Nairobi
OK, ek probeer regtig om julle op datum te bring... Hoop julle lees steeds! (Ek breek dit gelukkig mooi op vir die wat stadig lees, so Hennie jy kan ook volg :) )
Vanaf Ethiopie suid le die bandits en wille pad natuurlik weer voor... En, soos ek gese het, heng!, Noord Kenya is nie vir sussies nie! Ons het my ouers in Addis gegroet en met die bikes gediens was ons slaggereed vir die uitmergelende 5 dae rit wat voorgele het na Nairobi toe!
The journey gives meaning to the destination. -Ken Duncun-
Die eerste 2 dae in Ethiopie was fine... Die pad was goed en teen hierdie tyd is ons wel-geoefen om te koes vir mense wat nie kyk nie, donkies, perdekarre, klein indiese Bajaj motorfietsies, honde, kamele, kinders wat ons met klippe gooi, bokke en wat ookal nog ons kant toe mag kom. Ethiopie se paaie is waar alles gebeur, hoor!!
Die grenspos was ook peanuts en toe was dit weer tyd vir die groot manne toets - die ware dirtbike rider gaan nou geskei word van die wat letterlik in die stof gaan byt!
As 'n alternatiewe roete het ons toe meer oos getoer, 'n roete wat blykbaar meer sanderig is met minder sinkplaat. Ook 'n roete wat die voertrokke klaarblyklik aanpak. Wel, dalk sou dit beter gewees het as ons wel by hierdie roete kon gehou het... Pas oor die grens en ons ry verkeerd. Die GPS stuur ons toe amper Somalie toe voordat ons dit agterkom aan die einde van die dag! Ja, julle kan gelukkig wees dat julle nie al julle spaargeld hoef optegeoffer het om my en Stav se ransom vir die Somaliese pirates te betaal nie!! (Want een ding is seker, ou JZ sou dit verseker nie gedoen het nie!)
So, ipv 'n 'sanderige' pad slaan ons toe woestyn stof!! Ek het nog nooit so iet teegekom nie!! Die fietse sak skoon weg en ons moes 'n hele paar keer die ysterperde deurstoot! Van voertrokke was daar ook geen sig nie - ons het heeldag nie 'n enkele voertuig op die pad gekry nie! Eintlik was dit ongelooflik!! Jy, jou bike, jou boesem pel en stof!!
Hier is dit dan ook werklik die eerste keer waar ek gevoel het dat my ysterperd effe onbeheerbaar raak - die wille ding het my 4 keer soos 'n vrot vel laat trek!! Kyk, ek is 'n swemmer, maar stofduik is 'n ander tipe skill! (Die foto is na 'n groot duikslag met rooi stof orals!!) Ek kan ook nou se dat die bike 'n ware enduro bike is wat hier en daar deur goeie ou cable ties bymekaar gehou word...
There is more to life than increasing its speed. -Mahatma Gandi-
Ons het nie minder as 3 dae langs die Somaliese grens afgery nie. Die 2 nagte was beide bushcamps in die middel van nerens met amper te min water vir drink. Vuilslaap het 'n ander betekenis gekry! Maar, tenspyte van al die harde bene wat ons gekou het, is ons veilig daar deur met semi-heel bikes en was dit niks minder as ongelooflik nie!! 'n Onvergeetlike ervaring en herinnering en toets van karakter!
Dit bring ons dan tot by Nairobi, wat sowat 4 dae gelede is. En ons is nogsteeds hier. Ons bly by 'n overland kamp waar 'n duitser om goed ingerig het om gebroke ysterperde soos ons sin te ontvang... Ons wag steeds vir Stav se BMTrouble You om ontslaan te word uit die hospitaal voor ons die tropiese ooskus pak! (Ek wil ook net se dat ons nogal baie leer van ons rygoed - ek dink nie meer 'n tapid is 'n zef, greasy, parrow-arrow china met dropped suspension en blou ligte onder sy ryding met die spinners op in die kaap of vir die selfde geld in Voortrekkerweg, pta, nie. Die goed is alles deel van enjins...)
Nou ja, vriende, laat ek groet. Hoop dit gaan goed en mis julle klomp ook so tussen deur die avonture.
Jo(wyk)
Vanaf Ethiopie suid le die bandits en wille pad natuurlik weer voor... En, soos ek gese het, heng!, Noord Kenya is nie vir sussies nie! Ons het my ouers in Addis gegroet en met die bikes gediens was ons slaggereed vir die uitmergelende 5 dae rit wat voorgele het na Nairobi toe!
The journey gives meaning to the destination. -Ken Duncun-
Die eerste 2 dae in Ethiopie was fine... Die pad was goed en teen hierdie tyd is ons wel-geoefen om te koes vir mense wat nie kyk nie, donkies, perdekarre, klein indiese Bajaj motorfietsies, honde, kamele, kinders wat ons met klippe gooi, bokke en wat ookal nog ons kant toe mag kom. Ethiopie se paaie is waar alles gebeur, hoor!!
Die grenspos was ook peanuts en toe was dit weer tyd vir die groot manne toets - die ware dirtbike rider gaan nou geskei word van die wat letterlik in die stof gaan byt!
As 'n alternatiewe roete het ons toe meer oos getoer, 'n roete wat blykbaar meer sanderig is met minder sinkplaat. Ook 'n roete wat die voertrokke klaarblyklik aanpak. Wel, dalk sou dit beter gewees het as ons wel by hierdie roete kon gehou het... Pas oor die grens en ons ry verkeerd. Die GPS stuur ons toe amper Somalie toe voordat ons dit agterkom aan die einde van die dag! Ja, julle kan gelukkig wees dat julle nie al julle spaargeld hoef optegeoffer het om my en Stav se ransom vir die Somaliese pirates te betaal nie!! (Want een ding is seker, ou JZ sou dit verseker nie gedoen het nie!)
So, ipv 'n 'sanderige' pad slaan ons toe woestyn stof!! Ek het nog nooit so iet teegekom nie!! Die fietse sak skoon weg en ons moes 'n hele paar keer die ysterperde deurstoot! Van voertrokke was daar ook geen sig nie - ons het heeldag nie 'n enkele voertuig op die pad gekry nie! Eintlik was dit ongelooflik!! Jy, jou bike, jou boesem pel en stof!!
Hier is dit dan ook werklik die eerste keer waar ek gevoel het dat my ysterperd effe onbeheerbaar raak - die wille ding het my 4 keer soos 'n vrot vel laat trek!! Kyk, ek is 'n swemmer, maar stofduik is 'n ander tipe skill! (Die foto is na 'n groot duikslag met rooi stof orals!!) Ek kan ook nou se dat die bike 'n ware enduro bike is wat hier en daar deur goeie ou cable ties bymekaar gehou word...
There is more to life than increasing its speed. -Mahatma Gandi-
Ons het nie minder as 3 dae langs die Somaliese grens afgery nie. Die 2 nagte was beide bushcamps in die middel van nerens met amper te min water vir drink. Vuilslaap het 'n ander betekenis gekry! Maar, tenspyte van al die harde bene wat ons gekou het, is ons veilig daar deur met semi-heel bikes en was dit niks minder as ongelooflik nie!! 'n Onvergeetlike ervaring en herinnering en toets van karakter!
Dit bring ons dan tot by Nairobi, wat sowat 4 dae gelede is. En ons is nogsteeds hier. Ons bly by 'n overland kamp waar 'n duitser om goed ingerig het om gebroke ysterperde soos ons sin te ontvang... Ons wag steeds vir Stav se BMTrouble You om ontslaan te word uit die hospitaal voor ons die tropiese ooskus pak! (Ek wil ook net se dat ons nogal baie leer van ons rygoed - ek dink nie meer 'n tapid is 'n zef, greasy, parrow-arrow china met dropped suspension en blou ligte onder sy ryding met die spinners op in die kaap of vir die selfde geld in Voortrekkerweg, pta, nie. Die goed is alles deel van enjins...)
Nou ja, vriende, laat ek groet. Hoop dit gaan goed en mis julle klomp ook so tussen deur die avonture.
Jo(wyk)
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Episode 2: Ethiopie
Wat kan ek se… Hierdie land was verseker nog die hoogtepunt van ons trip! Dis heeltemal ‘n ander Afrika. ‘n Kultuur en mensdom op sy eie met baie geskiedenis, interessante etniese groepe en ‘n landskap wat elke avontuurlustige ysterperd ruiter van droom!!
The man who has no imagination has no wings. -Muhammad Ali-
Ethiopie is verseker nie die land van droogte wat jy dalk ingedagte het nie. Eerder een van reen en berge en enjera!!
Eers het ons ‘n week vir vriende van Global challenge in die suide van Ethiopie gejoin vir ‘n uitreik in Jinka. Dis in die lower Omo valley en het van die mees interessante tribes in Afrika. Mense wat hulle lippe sny om borde in te sit en kaal oor beeste spring as deel van huwelik seremonies! Elk geval, dit was so lekker om die groep van 5 hier te join en net goeie fellowship te he en vriende te maak! Die Afrika challenge groep toer al die hele jaar met local transport deur Afrika en was reeds in wes Afrika. Hardcore, ek se julle!!! Hierdie mense is hardcore en heavy cool!!
Ethiopie was dan ook die 1e plek waar ons ander ware ysterperd soldate ontmoet het!! Martin is seker nou my grootste hero!! Hy toer al vir 6 jaar op sy Africa Twin (blykbaar die fiets om te he) om die wereld! In Nairobi, by 'n biking packpackers het ons op hierdie foto van hom afgekom... Ek kan net se dat ek hierdie legende ontmoet het en dat hy vir my biking raad gegee het... :)
Van hier is ons na Addis Ababa om met ons Noordelik Historical lope van 2 weke te begin. En vanaf Addis is dit net berge!! Addis self is soos die 2de hoogste groot stad in die wereld of iets en is 2500m bo seespiel (ek moet wel nog hierdie feit google, maar die mense claim dit!).
Dis dan waar ons die wereld van oerkastele, konings, monarchie en die koptiese kerk binnegegaan het! Ethiopie het van die oudste Christen geskiedenis in die wereld en die mense is baie gelowig en committed. Dit was iets om te beleef!
The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. -Albert Einstein-
Ek en Stav is toe deur nog ‘n mannetoets in die Simien gebergtes. In die piek van hul reenseisoen is die twee van ons met ons scout met sy AK47 met die bikes die berge in! Hier het 3 dae se uber harde stapwerk teen 4000m bo seespieel vir ons voorgele! Dit was hard, maar elke uitsig het dit die moeite werd gemaak!! Dis net so ongelooflik mooi daar! Ons was ook gelukkig om van hul skaarste inheemse gediertes hier teetekom – wow, dit was spesiaal!
Lalibela was nog ‘n hoogtepunt!!! 1100 jaar oue kerke uit soliede rots gegiet!! Die koning van die tyd wou ‘n 2de Jerusalem bou! Dit was ongelooflik om te beleef en die kerke word steeds deur die mense daar gebruik om by te aanbid!
Laastens was ons gelukkig genoeg om my ouers vir so 4 dae in Addis te kon ontmoet na die lope. Sjoe, dit was so lekker om hulle te kon sien en die stories te kon deel!! Hier is die fietse ook dan vir oulaas gediens voor die lang pad terug na Nairobi…
Episode 3: Die lang pad terug na Nairobi…. (ek gaan julle maar so effe dan in suspense hou vir die ons 2de tog deur Noord Kenya…)
The man who has no imagination has no wings. -Muhammad Ali-
Ethiopie is verseker nie die land van droogte wat jy dalk ingedagte het nie. Eerder een van reen en berge en enjera!!
Eers het ons ‘n week vir vriende van Global challenge in die suide van Ethiopie gejoin vir ‘n uitreik in Jinka. Dis in die lower Omo valley en het van die mees interessante tribes in Afrika. Mense wat hulle lippe sny om borde in te sit en kaal oor beeste spring as deel van huwelik seremonies! Elk geval, dit was so lekker om die groep van 5 hier te join en net goeie fellowship te he en vriende te maak! Die Afrika challenge groep toer al die hele jaar met local transport deur Afrika en was reeds in wes Afrika. Hardcore, ek se julle!!! Hierdie mense is hardcore en heavy cool!!
Ethiopie was dan ook die 1e plek waar ons ander ware ysterperd soldate ontmoet het!! Martin is seker nou my grootste hero!! Hy toer al vir 6 jaar op sy Africa Twin (blykbaar die fiets om te he) om die wereld! In Nairobi, by 'n biking packpackers het ons op hierdie foto van hom afgekom... Ek kan net se dat ek hierdie legende ontmoet het en dat hy vir my biking raad gegee het... :)
Van hier is ons na Addis Ababa om met ons Noordelik Historical lope van 2 weke te begin. En vanaf Addis is dit net berge!! Addis self is soos die 2de hoogste groot stad in die wereld of iets en is 2500m bo seespiel (ek moet wel nog hierdie feit google, maar die mense claim dit!).
Dis dan waar ons die wereld van oerkastele, konings, monarchie en die koptiese kerk binnegegaan het! Ethiopie het van die oudste Christen geskiedenis in die wereld en die mense is baie gelowig en committed. Dit was iets om te beleef!
The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. -Albert Einstein-
Ek en Stav is toe deur nog ‘n mannetoets in die Simien gebergtes. In die piek van hul reenseisoen is die twee van ons met ons scout met sy AK47 met die bikes die berge in! Hier het 3 dae se uber harde stapwerk teen 4000m bo seespieel vir ons voorgele! Dit was hard, maar elke uitsig het dit die moeite werd gemaak!! Dis net so ongelooflik mooi daar! Ons was ook gelukkig om van hul skaarste inheemse gediertes hier teetekom – wow, dit was spesiaal!
Lalibela was nog ‘n hoogtepunt!!! 1100 jaar oue kerke uit soliede rots gegiet!! Die koning van die tyd wou ‘n 2de Jerusalem bou! Dit was ongelooflik om te beleef en die kerke word steeds deur die mense daar gebruik om by te aanbid!
Laastens was ons gelukkig genoeg om my ouers vir so 4 dae in Addis te kon ontmoet na die lope. Sjoe, dit was so lekker om hulle te kon sien en die stories te kon deel!! Hier is die fietse ook dan vir oulaas gediens voor die lang pad terug na Nairobi…
Episode 3: Die lang pad terug na Nairobi…. (ek gaan julle maar so effe dan in suspense hou vir die ons 2de tog deur Noord Kenya…)
Entebbe, Uganda -> N.Kenya -> Ethiopia -> N.Kenya -> Nairobi
Wow! It is strange to have decent internet access again. I’ve just managed to login to our blog page successfully for the first time since the last posting.
Telecommunications in Ethiopia was absolutely frustrating – one would consider the sending of an sms successfully from a roaming cell number to be nothing short of a miracle - no kidding! Internet access was limited to dial up. We ended up buying a local sim card in order to keep family in the loop with our progress. We are in the buzzing city of Nairobi, over a month after our last posting – it’s great to be back where there is running water, flush toilets, warm showers and an uninterrupted electricity supply.
I won’t be able to summarise all of the highlights and lowlights of the last month but I hope that I will be able to give a blended summary of the two.
Let me begin by saying that the journey through N.Kenya to Ethiopia was tough. The rumors of Cattle Rustlers as well as Bandits were slightly unsettling. The environment was also harsh, hot, desert dry and the gravel roads were extreme. The one section of the road was intensely corrugated for a continuous stretch of over 100km, any bolt that was loose on the bike was loosened and the whole tail light of my bike fell off. Fortunately the nuts and bolts were not lost and the repair was easy. The harsh road also provided us with our first opportunity to do a tube change on my back wheel – good times!
This was not the first of our tube issues, between Jo and myself we have now done 5 replacements – we now have our tire repair process down to a T. Although the ride through the north was harsh, the scenery was stunning.
We had made contact with a group of young South African’s doing Global Challenge (a year of missions in Africa, moving south from Egypt to South Africa). We weren’t quite sure where we’d meet with them as they were on a pilot mission with no cemented plans. Initially we were to join them in Sudan. That fell through and it worked out that we would meet them in Jinka, Ethiopia, on our way to the North. The scope of their mission in Jinka was unknown to them and us, until we arrived there. We met with the local missionary who is from one of the tribes. Basically there is an issue in 3 of the tribes where children are deemed ‘mingy’ if their top two fronts teethe appear before the bottom two. In these 3 tribes it is a serious curse and the child is killed, so as to remove the curse - they have recently started a children’s orphanage to rescue these children. The bigger vision is to reach his tribe with the Gospel. Once he has sorted out the orphanage then he will be able to devote more time to evangelism. We got stuck in and started helping renovate the buildings that the orphanage was to move to at the end of this month. We had a really blessed time, working with the Challenge group –
From Jinka, we went to Addis Ababa, not much to see but did manage to experienced some their local tunes (sing and vibrant dance) as well as their spicy food – which always includes their Njera which I would describe as a fermented pancake – definitely palatable.
We then did the historical loop in the Eth highlands. The whole loop took about 2 weeks and was definitely a highlight from both a tourist and a riding point of view – riding the roads with bikes was absolutely phenomenal. Most of the road was not straight and the route of over 2000 km was packed with long stretches of mountain passes which snaked through the highlands, requiring the bike to lean significantly to one side or the other with most stunning views.
We managed to see the Blue Nile falls, visit the 6 ancient Castles in Gondor, the Obleisks in Axum as well as the famous Rock Hewn Churches in Lalibella…all very interesting and I hope to share those experiences in detail when i return to SA. Having completed the historic loop, we spent some time with Jo's folks in Sendafa, a town just outside of Addis Ababa. It was fantastic to catch up with them and find out more about the childrens work they are involved in.
From Sendafa we missioned down to nairobi. Although the total trip was less than 2000km, it took us 6 days of intense riding. We returned via a different N.Kenya road. We hoped that it would be more bike friendly, that is less wear and tear. This may have been so, but it was much more effort for the rider. On two of the days we rode for 12 hours with a break here and there! On both days we didn't make our destinations (this was a blessing in disguise as the destinations we had made were dodgy towns), and so we bush camped. On both occations we rode our bikes a few 100m off of the rode and pitched tent. They turned out to be fantastic settings with a bright canopy of stars overhead.
Telecommunications in Ethiopia was absolutely frustrating – one would consider the sending of an sms successfully from a roaming cell number to be nothing short of a miracle - no kidding! Internet access was limited to dial up. We ended up buying a local sim card in order to keep family in the loop with our progress. We are in the buzzing city of Nairobi, over a month after our last posting – it’s great to be back where there is running water, flush toilets, warm showers and an uninterrupted electricity supply.
I won’t be able to summarise all of the highlights and lowlights of the last month but I hope that I will be able to give a blended summary of the two.
Let me begin by saying that the journey through N.Kenya to Ethiopia was tough. The rumors of Cattle Rustlers as well as Bandits were slightly unsettling. The environment was also harsh, hot, desert dry and the gravel roads were extreme. The one section of the road was intensely corrugated for a continuous stretch of over 100km, any bolt that was loose on the bike was loosened and the whole tail light of my bike fell off. Fortunately the nuts and bolts were not lost and the repair was easy. The harsh road also provided us with our first opportunity to do a tube change on my back wheel – good times!
This was not the first of our tube issues, between Jo and myself we have now done 5 replacements – we now have our tire repair process down to a T. Although the ride through the north was harsh, the scenery was stunning.
We had made contact with a group of young South African’s doing Global Challenge (a year of missions in Africa, moving south from Egypt to South Africa). We weren’t quite sure where we’d meet with them as they were on a pilot mission with no cemented plans. Initially we were to join them in Sudan. That fell through and it worked out that we would meet them in Jinka, Ethiopia, on our way to the North. The scope of their mission in Jinka was unknown to them and us, until we arrived there. We met with the local missionary who is from one of the tribes. Basically there is an issue in 3 of the tribes where children are deemed ‘mingy’ if their top two fronts teethe appear before the bottom two. In these 3 tribes it is a serious curse and the child is killed, so as to remove the curse - they have recently started a children’s orphanage to rescue these children. The bigger vision is to reach his tribe with the Gospel. Once he has sorted out the orphanage then he will be able to devote more time to evangelism. We got stuck in and started helping renovate the buildings that the orphanage was to move to at the end of this month. We had a really blessed time, working with the Challenge group –
From Jinka, we went to Addis Ababa, not much to see but did manage to experienced some their local tunes (sing and vibrant dance) as well as their spicy food – which always includes their Njera which I would describe as a fermented pancake – definitely palatable.
We then did the historical loop in the Eth highlands. The whole loop took about 2 weeks and was definitely a highlight from both a tourist and a riding point of view – riding the roads with bikes was absolutely phenomenal. Most of the road was not straight and the route of over 2000 km was packed with long stretches of mountain passes which snaked through the highlands, requiring the bike to lean significantly to one side or the other with most stunning views.
We managed to see the Blue Nile falls, visit the 6 ancient Castles in Gondor, the Obleisks in Axum as well as the famous Rock Hewn Churches in Lalibella…all very interesting and I hope to share those experiences in detail when i return to SA. Having completed the historic loop, we spent some time with Jo's folks in Sendafa, a town just outside of Addis Ababa. It was fantastic to catch up with them and find out more about the childrens work they are involved in.
From Sendafa we missioned down to nairobi. Although the total trip was less than 2000km, it took us 6 days of intense riding. We returned via a different N.Kenya road. We hoped that it would be more bike friendly, that is less wear and tear. This may have been so, but it was much more effort for the rider. On two of the days we rode for 12 hours with a break here and there! On both days we didn't make our destinations (this was a blessing in disguise as the destinations we had made were dodgy towns), and so we bush camped. On both occations we rode our bikes a few 100m off of the rode and pitched tent. They turned out to be fantastic settings with a bright canopy of stars overhead.
Die verlore 6 weke - Ethiopie toe en terug!
Almal!
Sjoe, lyk my ons is ook nie so goed met die blog ding soos ons aanvanklik gedink het nie. Nee regtig, ons het probeer, maar party gedeeltes van Afrika is nog donker wat kommunikasie betref!!
Elk geval, julle sal bly wees (die wat omgee, natuurlik) om te hoor dat alles nog goed gaan. Ons lewe, het min beserings, en die bikes se wiele rol ook nog. Die twee ysterperde het ‘n paar skete, maar as ons hulle nie verder verrinneweer nie behoort ons hulle tot by die huis te kan kry, but let me not count my chickens yet!
Tans is ons in Nairobi en het julle ongelukkig ‘n ongelooflike 5 weke van ons trip in Ethiopie misgeloop. Ek weet as te ware nie eers waar om te begin vertel nie. Daar het net te veel al gebeur!! Ons ervarings was regtig ryk gewees en ons prys die Here daarvoor! Hopelik sal ons van nou af vorentoe by internet kan uitkom, so hoop om julle ten minste soortvan op hoogte te bring. So, sien hierdie as fase een van die verlore trip, soos 7de laan net meer spannend, gaan ek met julle gevoelens tooi deur julle in die lug agter te laat tot en met die opvolg
Maar eers, ‘n volledige status update tot en met Nairobi, Kenya:
-Valle = 6 elk! (Blykbaar het ek en Stav nog nie Afrika se sand kon tem nie. Noord Kenya he tons letterlik neergesit! Daar is die sand stof en raak ons ysterperde soos wille bulle wat alles in hul vermoens doen om die ruiters in die stof te laat byt!)
-Punctures: 5 tussen die twee van ons
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 13 000 kms (Offroad = +/- 6 500 kms – helfte, kan julle glo!?)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = vrek, hierdie is nou moeilik want ons het nie regtig boek gehou nie (ek weet; swak styl Aktuaris!), maar ek kan wel getuig van ilte (spelling??) op my boude as bewys van menigde ure!
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 22 uur
- Siektes en kwale = hier en daar ‘n kneusplek of ‘n enjera (Ethiopiese brood) hardlywigheid, maar niks waarvoor die dokter benodig word nie.
- Huidige posisie: Nairobi, hoofstad van Kenya (26 August)
- Volgende bestemming: Mombasa, kom nou kuslangs terug huis toe! Kan nie glo dis al sulke tyd nie – nog net ‘n maand oor!
Episode 1: Uganda tot by Ethiopie
If you're going through hell, keep going. -Winston Churchill-
Ek dink ek het nog laas almal die skruk op die lyf gejaag met stories van die ‘naughty natives’ en die slegte paaie in Noord Kenya. Ek wil net se dat geen van daardie stories oordrewe was nie! In plaas van die slogan “Afrika is nie vir sussies nie”, gaan ek se “Noord Kenya is nie vir sussies nie!”
Dis baie droog en die mense baklei. Hulle is nie vriendelik nie, hoor! Beide ek en Duane moes maar koes vir ‘n paar groot klippe wat ons rigting geslinger is en mense dreig jou selfs met hulle spiese wat hulle in die lug steek… Die pad is ook hard, kliphard!! Dis ook dan op hierdie pad wat 2 uit 3 motorfietsryers dan ook hulle agter shocks se seels blaas ens ens! Die terrein lyk soos die van Mars en die pad is sinkplaat van die duiwel homself (jammer as hierdie bietjie kras vir party mense gestel is, maar dis regtig wat ek gevoel het). OK, ek dink dis grafies genoeg…
Duane se panniers (dis nou die goed aan die kant van die bikes wat ons besittings huisves, dames) het sy chasis (die raamwerk, dames) stukkend geruk, sy taillight het afgeskuk en sy voorlig is ontwortel! So die BMW was ‘n gebroke soldaat! Die Kawa met die sagte sake het gehou. 1 – 0 vir die Kawa!
Elk geval, toe moes die manne maar swys in die middle van nerens. Dit was ‘n belewenis! Gelukkig het ons ‘n kontak (ongelooflike Anglikaanse priester en sy vrou) hier in die middel van nerens gehad! Net daar los ons toe sowat 30kg se goed om die bikes se werk ligter te maak. As jy gedink het jy kan lig pak, dink weer, want op so trip raak minimaal die antwoord! Met my 2 hemde en 4 onderbroeke kom ek al 6 weke!
(Ons het die ekstra begasie nou weer in Nairobi opgetel.)
So het ons dan moeg in Ethiopie aangekom…
Sjoe, lyk my ons is ook nie so goed met die blog ding soos ons aanvanklik gedink het nie. Nee regtig, ons het probeer, maar party gedeeltes van Afrika is nog donker wat kommunikasie betref!!
Elk geval, julle sal bly wees (die wat omgee, natuurlik) om te hoor dat alles nog goed gaan. Ons lewe, het min beserings, en die bikes se wiele rol ook nog. Die twee ysterperde het ‘n paar skete, maar as ons hulle nie verder verrinneweer nie behoort ons hulle tot by die huis te kan kry, but let me not count my chickens yet!
Tans is ons in Nairobi en het julle ongelukkig ‘n ongelooflike 5 weke van ons trip in Ethiopie misgeloop. Ek weet as te ware nie eers waar om te begin vertel nie. Daar het net te veel al gebeur!! Ons ervarings was regtig ryk gewees en ons prys die Here daarvoor! Hopelik sal ons van nou af vorentoe by internet kan uitkom, so hoop om julle ten minste soortvan op hoogte te bring. So, sien hierdie as fase een van die verlore trip, soos 7de laan net meer spannend, gaan ek met julle gevoelens tooi deur julle in die lug agter te laat tot en met die opvolg
Maar eers, ‘n volledige status update tot en met Nairobi, Kenya:
-Valle = 6 elk! (Blykbaar het ek en Stav nog nie Afrika se sand kon tem nie. Noord Kenya he tons letterlik neergesit! Daar is die sand stof en raak ons ysterperde soos wille bulle wat alles in hul vermoens doen om die ruiters in die stof te laat byt!)
-Punctures: 5 tussen die twee van ons
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 13 000 kms (Offroad = +/- 6 500 kms – helfte, kan julle glo!?)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = vrek, hierdie is nou moeilik want ons het nie regtig boek gehou nie (ek weet; swak styl Aktuaris!), maar ek kan wel getuig van ilte (spelling??) op my boude as bewys van menigde ure!
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 22 uur
- Siektes en kwale = hier en daar ‘n kneusplek of ‘n enjera (Ethiopiese brood) hardlywigheid, maar niks waarvoor die dokter benodig word nie.
- Huidige posisie: Nairobi, hoofstad van Kenya (26 August)
- Volgende bestemming: Mombasa, kom nou kuslangs terug huis toe! Kan nie glo dis al sulke tyd nie – nog net ‘n maand oor!
Episode 1: Uganda tot by Ethiopie
If you're going through hell, keep going. -Winston Churchill-
Ek dink ek het nog laas almal die skruk op die lyf gejaag met stories van die ‘naughty natives’ en die slegte paaie in Noord Kenya. Ek wil net se dat geen van daardie stories oordrewe was nie! In plaas van die slogan “Afrika is nie vir sussies nie”, gaan ek se “Noord Kenya is nie vir sussies nie!”
Dis baie droog en die mense baklei. Hulle is nie vriendelik nie, hoor! Beide ek en Duane moes maar koes vir ‘n paar groot klippe wat ons rigting geslinger is en mense dreig jou selfs met hulle spiese wat hulle in die lug steek… Die pad is ook hard, kliphard!! Dis ook dan op hierdie pad wat 2 uit 3 motorfietsryers dan ook hulle agter shocks se seels blaas ens ens! Die terrein lyk soos die van Mars en die pad is sinkplaat van die duiwel homself (jammer as hierdie bietjie kras vir party mense gestel is, maar dis regtig wat ek gevoel het). OK, ek dink dis grafies genoeg…
Duane se panniers (dis nou die goed aan die kant van die bikes wat ons besittings huisves, dames) het sy chasis (die raamwerk, dames) stukkend geruk, sy taillight het afgeskuk en sy voorlig is ontwortel! So die BMW was ‘n gebroke soldaat! Die Kawa met die sagte sake het gehou. 1 – 0 vir die Kawa!
Elk geval, toe moes die manne maar swys in die middle van nerens. Dit was ‘n belewenis! Gelukkig het ons ‘n kontak (ongelooflike Anglikaanse priester en sy vrou) hier in die middel van nerens gehad! Net daar los ons toe sowat 30kg se goed om die bikes se werk ligter te maak. As jy gedink het jy kan lig pak, dink weer, want op so trip raak minimaal die antwoord! Met my 2 hemde en 4 onderbroeke kom ek al 6 weke!
(Ons het die ekstra begasie nou weer in Nairobi opgetel.)
So het ons dan moeg in Ethiopie aangekom…
Monday, July 13, 2009
Kigali, Rwanda to Entebbe, Uganda
Hi! I can’t believe we’ve already been on the go for 4 weeks today!
I’ll try to update you on what we’ve been up to since the last update. After our long stop in Kigali, we rode out of Rwanda via the less popular border in the North West. We were only just getting used to the luxury of tar roads, only to find the connecting road on the Ugandan side to be much like what we had experienced on the W. border of Tanzania. Having that said, the road was excellent for biking, packed with hair pin bend turns, as well as dramatic sheer drop-offs. Vegetation was different from Rwanda and we were riding through thick equatorial forests on our way to the prominent Lake Bunyoni, meaning “place of many little birds”. We found a terraced campsite on the edge of the lake and stayed a few days before moving north. One of the biggest attractions in the area is the tracking of the rare Silver Back Gorilla’s to which the Bwindi Impenetrable Nat Park which is home to half of the surviving population, at the ludicrous cost of $500!! Far too expensive. We decided we’d take the 4x4 route through the Bwindi…and just maybe we’d spot one. Well, we weren’t so fortunate but we did see a large primate of some sort briefly, before it scrambled off into the thick forest. The Bwindi route took us to Queen Elizabeth national park, where we joined a public road running through the middle of it. The vegetation changed drastically from the equatorial forest to wide open, flat savannah with straight roads. We rode through thousands of butterflies fluttering all over the show. We also spotted some mammals: a couple of buffalo and a herd of Ugandan Cob, which look very similar to our impala.
Soon after our exit of the Park we crossed into the N. Hemisphere .
This was all on our way to the Magestic Rwenzoris (the highest mountain range in Africa) – Jo’s uploaded a pic below. We didn’t take the time to summit the peak of 5109m…I’ll have to do that on my return to Uganda one day.
We then rode through from the Rwenzoris to Jinja . We thought that the trip would be fairly effortless and quick…but once again were proven to be a little optimistic on our predictions of how quickly we would progress along the route. We had to clear out of the way of mad truck/bus drivers who continue to disregard motorbikes on the road - yikes! We moved well up until Kampala, where we were stalled – we were given directions at one of the petrol stations which directed us right through the middle of the taxi rank. It was absolute chaos, navigating through all the taxis, boda-boda’s (motorbike taxis that are ever popular and unpredictable) as well as people, and then also moving in what appeared to be the opposite direction of everything else…
Finally we got to Jinja, the source of the Nile.
A group a school children watch a local rafter take a grade 4 rapid with a Gerry Can.
We watched one of the locals do a grade 4 rapid on a Gerry Can – Jo was keen to try it out but that didn’t materialize. We signed up with Equator rafting company for a trip down the river. Jo and I were at the front of the raft and hit the first rapid at a bit of an angle, I was sure the raft had flipped! I was hanging onto the safety rope of the boat, but was not in the boat. When I surfaced, I was surprised to find the raft still righted and most of the crew still in position! Adrenaline pumping! We rafted another 30 km before we ended off with a massive grade 5 rapid called ‘The Bad Place’. In really was a blast and pitty it had to come to an end.
We’ve been staying in Entebbe for the weekend with Carl Black and his family, who I know from TWR in Swaziland. He’s now working with another mission, AIM. We’ve been having a good time here, catching up, relaxing and even caught up on one of the big Ice Hockey matches between Toronto and Chicago.
It not all play here, we will spend this afternoon prepping the bikes and planning our route to Ethiopia. There is only one option for the section through Seredupi, Marsabit and Moyale – the isolated north of Kenya. Petrol will most likely be a little scarce, and we are also not sure how active the bandits in the region are, so we might have to join a convoy for part of the route. We’ll appreciate your prayers as we move through this area towards the end of the week.
Till next time.
Adios
I’ll try to update you on what we’ve been up to since the last update. After our long stop in Kigali, we rode out of Rwanda via the less popular border in the North West. We were only just getting used to the luxury of tar roads, only to find the connecting road on the Ugandan side to be much like what we had experienced on the W. border of Tanzania. Having that said, the road was excellent for biking, packed with hair pin bend turns, as well as dramatic sheer drop-offs. Vegetation was different from Rwanda and we were riding through thick equatorial forests on our way to the prominent Lake Bunyoni, meaning “place of many little birds”. We found a terraced campsite on the edge of the lake and stayed a few days before moving north. One of the biggest attractions in the area is the tracking of the rare Silver Back Gorilla’s to which the Bwindi Impenetrable Nat Park which is home to half of the surviving population, at the ludicrous cost of $500!! Far too expensive. We decided we’d take the 4x4 route through the Bwindi…and just maybe we’d spot one. Well, we weren’t so fortunate but we did see a large primate of some sort briefly, before it scrambled off into the thick forest. The Bwindi route took us to Queen Elizabeth national park, where we joined a public road running through the middle of it. The vegetation changed drastically from the equatorial forest to wide open, flat savannah with straight roads. We rode through thousands of butterflies fluttering all over the show. We also spotted some mammals: a couple of buffalo and a herd of Ugandan Cob, which look very similar to our impala.
Soon after our exit of the Park we crossed into the N. Hemisphere .
This was all on our way to the Magestic Rwenzoris (the highest mountain range in Africa) – Jo’s uploaded a pic below. We didn’t take the time to summit the peak of 5109m…I’ll have to do that on my return to Uganda one day.
We then rode through from the Rwenzoris to Jinja . We thought that the trip would be fairly effortless and quick…but once again were proven to be a little optimistic on our predictions of how quickly we would progress along the route. We had to clear out of the way of mad truck/bus drivers who continue to disregard motorbikes on the road - yikes! We moved well up until Kampala, where we were stalled – we were given directions at one of the petrol stations which directed us right through the middle of the taxi rank. It was absolute chaos, navigating through all the taxis, boda-boda’s (motorbike taxis that are ever popular and unpredictable) as well as people, and then also moving in what appeared to be the opposite direction of everything else…
Finally we got to Jinja, the source of the Nile.
A group a school children watch a local rafter take a grade 4 rapid with a Gerry Can.
We watched one of the locals do a grade 4 rapid on a Gerry Can – Jo was keen to try it out but that didn’t materialize. We signed up with Equator rafting company for a trip down the river. Jo and I were at the front of the raft and hit the first rapid at a bit of an angle, I was sure the raft had flipped! I was hanging onto the safety rope of the boat, but was not in the boat. When I surfaced, I was surprised to find the raft still righted and most of the crew still in position! Adrenaline pumping! We rafted another 30 km before we ended off with a massive grade 5 rapid called ‘The Bad Place’. In really was a blast and pitty it had to come to an end.
We’ve been staying in Entebbe for the weekend with Carl Black and his family, who I know from TWR in Swaziland. He’s now working with another mission, AIM. We’ve been having a good time here, catching up, relaxing and even caught up on one of the big Ice Hockey matches between Toronto and Chicago.
It not all play here, we will spend this afternoon prepping the bikes and planning our route to Ethiopia. There is only one option for the section through Seredupi, Marsabit and Moyale – the isolated north of Kenya. Petrol will most likely be a little scarce, and we are also not sure how active the bandits in the region are, so we might have to join a convoy for part of the route. We’ll appreciate your prayers as we move through this area towards the end of the week.
Till next time.
Adios
Kibali, Rwanda, na Entebbe, Uganda
Status update:
- Valle = steeds 3 – 2 vir Stav
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 5800 kms (Offroad = +/- 1600 kms)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = 92 uur
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 17.5 uur
- Siektes en kwale = geen (Afrika luiheid het ons al ‘n paar keer getref)
- Huidige posisie: Entebbe, Uganda (13 Julie)
- Volgende bestemming: Kenya, maar oppad na Addis, Ethiopie (die trip sal seker omtrent 5/6 dae neem. Harde ry wat voorle!)
Hoesit oesit! Yip, daar is weer ‘n kort tydjie wat afgeknyp kan word vir ‘n vinnige toer update. Tans rus ons uit vir die volgende rowwe ‘stretch’ by Carl Black en sy gesin wat betrokke is by die sending organisasie AIM hier in Uganda. Dis wonderlik om by ‘n huis verwelkom te word van tyd tot tyd so tussen deur die swerwery en tent opslaan!
There is two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle. -Albert Einstein-
Elk geval, dit gaan nog goed, bitter goed. Die afgelope 10 dae in Uganda was regtig wonderlik met asemrowende berge, woude, mere, offroad paaie en avontuurlustige bedrywighede. Ons het die aaneenlopende heuwels van Rwanda gegroet met ‘n agterpaadjie wat verby die land se vulkane en gorilla park verby loop. Die Uganda grenspos was rustig en teen 14:30 was doanne en immigration se ‘officials’ steeds op lunch! Ten minste het hulle ons, soos die res van Uganda, vriendelik ontvang toe hulle teen 15:00 weer deure oopmaak. Die enigste minder vriendelike afdeling van die land is hulle bus en trok drywers teenoor motorfietse...
Motorfiets taxi’s, of eerder Boda-Boda’s soos hulle hier beter bekend staan, is ongelooflik gewild en orals. Die 80-125cc fietsies gebou deur die Indiers dra tot 3 passasiers of word gelaai met vragte van oor die 100kg – wat ongelooflik is want ek is seker met 30/40kg gelaai en voel vrek swaar op my 650cc! Hierdie outjies is die werkdonkies van Afrika en hulle bestuurders sonder vrees! Maar ongelukkig handhaaf hul slegs ‘n maks van 50km/h en word net soos ‘n trapfiets op die paaie deur die groter motors hanteer. Dit beteken dat ‘n motorfiets, ons sin inkluis, geen padregte het nie! Wat beteken, meer direk: “van die pad af of word getrap!”. Ons loop dus lig en kry goeie oefening vir Ethiopie wat blykbaar nog erger is…
Nieteenstaande ons niebestaande padreg, is Uganda nog net ongelooflik gewees! Ons het al ontspan by die feetjie meer, Bunyoni, met die motorfietse gekruis deur die ‘Ondeurganklike bos’, Bwendi (waar oor die helfte van die wereld se berggorillas hulle huisves) en die hoogste bergreeks in Afrika se rante geklouter – dis nou die majesteuse Rwenzori’s! Die mense is vriendelik en verwelkomend en behandel ons 2 vuil bikers soos supersterre. Almal wil ‘n foto he – die dames met ons en die manne met die bikes Ek voel nogal ‘n bietjie soos Ewan McGregor…
How could drops of water know themselves to be a river? Yet the river flows on. -Antoine De Saint-Exupery-
Ons laaste stop voor die Entebbe was Jinja, die sogenaamde oorsprong van die Victoria of wit nyl. Hier is daar een ding wat almal trek – om die nyl te ‘white water raft’! Dit het ons ook dan gedoen. Die rivier is magtig, die water baie, die visarende volop, die rapids groot en dit alles is ‘n perfekte kombinasie en medium vir die pomp van adrenalien! Dit was vrek cool gewees!
Al mag alles soos vet prêt en wille rondtoer klink, is dit ook meer as dit. Afrika se wildheid en mense raak mens. Die grootheid van sy probleme verstom my en maak my mismoedig. En my eie kleinheid en hulpeloosheid om te beinvloed besef ek net meer en meer… Maar tussendeur die warboel van emosie en geskommelde drome is God. God het lief en is goed. Hy het ‘n plan en roeping vir ons elkeen se lewens en ek glo elke oomblik dat Hy nooit die liefdevolle mense van Afrika sal agterlaat nie! Ek glo steeds daar is lig (en ons moet dit wees) vir sogenaamde ‘donker Afrika’…
Ek sluit eers af. Ons diens vandag ons ysterdonkies en sal more die lang pad na Addis Ababa, Ethiopie, begin aandurf. Blykbaar is noordelike Kenya se paaie van die rofste wat ons kan verwag op die trip en is daar boonop stropers (of Bandit) aktiviteit met gedeeltes. Bid asb saam vir ons veiligheid.
Seengroete!
- Valle = steeds 3 – 2 vir Stav
- Totale Km afgele = +/- 5800 kms (Offroad = +/- 1600 kms)
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = 92 uur
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 17.5 uur
- Siektes en kwale = geen (Afrika luiheid het ons al ‘n paar keer getref)
- Huidige posisie: Entebbe, Uganda (13 Julie)
- Volgende bestemming: Kenya, maar oppad na Addis, Ethiopie (die trip sal seker omtrent 5/6 dae neem. Harde ry wat voorle!)
Hoesit oesit! Yip, daar is weer ‘n kort tydjie wat afgeknyp kan word vir ‘n vinnige toer update. Tans rus ons uit vir die volgende rowwe ‘stretch’ by Carl Black en sy gesin wat betrokke is by die sending organisasie AIM hier in Uganda. Dis wonderlik om by ‘n huis verwelkom te word van tyd tot tyd so tussen deur die swerwery en tent opslaan!
There is two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle. -Albert Einstein-
Elk geval, dit gaan nog goed, bitter goed. Die afgelope 10 dae in Uganda was regtig wonderlik met asemrowende berge, woude, mere, offroad paaie en avontuurlustige bedrywighede. Ons het die aaneenlopende heuwels van Rwanda gegroet met ‘n agterpaadjie wat verby die land se vulkane en gorilla park verby loop. Die Uganda grenspos was rustig en teen 14:30 was doanne en immigration se ‘officials’ steeds op lunch! Ten minste het hulle ons, soos die res van Uganda, vriendelik ontvang toe hulle teen 15:00 weer deure oopmaak. Die enigste minder vriendelike afdeling van die land is hulle bus en trok drywers teenoor motorfietse...
Motorfiets taxi’s, of eerder Boda-Boda’s soos hulle hier beter bekend staan, is ongelooflik gewild en orals. Die 80-125cc fietsies gebou deur die Indiers dra tot 3 passasiers of word gelaai met vragte van oor die 100kg – wat ongelooflik is want ek is seker met 30/40kg gelaai en voel vrek swaar op my 650cc! Hierdie outjies is die werkdonkies van Afrika en hulle bestuurders sonder vrees! Maar ongelukkig handhaaf hul slegs ‘n maks van 50km/h en word net soos ‘n trapfiets op die paaie deur die groter motors hanteer. Dit beteken dat ‘n motorfiets, ons sin inkluis, geen padregte het nie! Wat beteken, meer direk: “van die pad af of word getrap!”. Ons loop dus lig en kry goeie oefening vir Ethiopie wat blykbaar nog erger is…
Nieteenstaande ons niebestaande padreg, is Uganda nog net ongelooflik gewees! Ons het al ontspan by die feetjie meer, Bunyoni, met die motorfietse gekruis deur die ‘Ondeurganklike bos’, Bwendi (waar oor die helfte van die wereld se berggorillas hulle huisves) en die hoogste bergreeks in Afrika se rante geklouter – dis nou die majesteuse Rwenzori’s! Die mense is vriendelik en verwelkomend en behandel ons 2 vuil bikers soos supersterre. Almal wil ‘n foto he – die dames met ons en die manne met die bikes Ek voel nogal ‘n bietjie soos Ewan McGregor…
How could drops of water know themselves to be a river? Yet the river flows on. -Antoine De Saint-Exupery-
Ons laaste stop voor die Entebbe was Jinja, die sogenaamde oorsprong van die Victoria of wit nyl. Hier is daar een ding wat almal trek – om die nyl te ‘white water raft’! Dit het ons ook dan gedoen. Die rivier is magtig, die water baie, die visarende volop, die rapids groot en dit alles is ‘n perfekte kombinasie en medium vir die pomp van adrenalien! Dit was vrek cool gewees!
Al mag alles soos vet prêt en wille rondtoer klink, is dit ook meer as dit. Afrika se wildheid en mense raak mens. Die grootheid van sy probleme verstom my en maak my mismoedig. En my eie kleinheid en hulpeloosheid om te beinvloed besef ek net meer en meer… Maar tussendeur die warboel van emosie en geskommelde drome is God. God het lief en is goed. Hy het ‘n plan en roeping vir ons elkeen se lewens en ek glo elke oomblik dat Hy nooit die liefdevolle mense van Afrika sal agterlaat nie! Ek glo steeds daar is lig (en ons moet dit wees) vir sogenaamde ‘donker Afrika’…
Ek sluit eers af. Ons diens vandag ons ysterdonkies en sal more die lang pad na Addis Ababa, Ethiopie, begin aandurf. Blykbaar is noordelike Kenya se paaie van die rofste wat ons kan verwag op die trip en is daar boonop stropers (of Bandit) aktiviteit met gedeeltes. Bid asb saam vir ons veiligheid.
Seengroete!
Friday, July 3, 2009
From Mazabuka, Zambia, to Kigali, Rwanda
Greetings from Kigali Rwanda!
Much has happened since the last posting we made in Mazabuka, Zambia while we were taking a much needed 2 day break , having travelled solidly for almost a week. Little did we know the roads that we had been travelling on up to that point were like a highway compared to the roads further north.
One of the highlights was our 2 night stay, right on the Lake Tanganyika, the place we stayed at (lake Tanganyika lodge) was very remote and we followed a windy 4x4 rocky track which both tested and built our off road biking skills! The lodge is right on the lake edge which gave us the most amazing campsite from which to view the sunset across the lake. At night we had brilliant canopy of stars above ..-and spotted a number of shooting stars which was quite special. This would be our last in Zambia before entering into Tanzania…
The section of road that we travelled on through the western side of Tanzania was particularly tough – both physically and mentally demanding. We saw absolutely no tar for 1000 km, we frequently had to slow down to navigate the sandy stretches of road which were very humbling. Riding through the sandy parts requires skill and is made more challenging with the 2 side pannears that I carry. I’ve come off on two occations , losing balance whilst moving through thick sand...lesson learned and new respect gained for the off road!
We found that the poor road conditions in the west of Tan didn’t put breaks on
the truck drivers moving on our route. Trucks and 4x4’s for that matter would move through at about 100 km per hour kicking up a dust storm– we quickly learned to make way early for the trucks, even if they were on ‘our’ side of the road. Riding after sunset has not been an option on the dusty roads and we had to bushcamp on 2 occations. The 2nd campsite was stunning, we road about 200m off of the main route and set up tent on a hill overlooking a plain of tall yellow grass... for the stretch through Tan which was approx 1000km we saw running water once. As you can imagine both Jo and I were layered in red dust (i’ll upload the evidence)
We finally reached some respectable tar on 30th June, which took us over the Rosuma river and falls, and through the rolling hills of Rwanda and into the capital of Kigali, where we have been resting out and catching up on the recent genocide tragedy which has scarred the Rwandan country – it makes me realise how grateful we South Africans should be with how smooth the changeover of governments was back in 1994..
I better be off, I still need to finish of my packing – we are leaving shortly for the Ugandan border.
Till then take care.
Van Mazabuka tot Kigali, Rwanda
Aangesien die ervaring meer persoonlik is, en gevoel en emosie belangrik is met die weergee, gaan ek en Duane eerder apart updates maak. Anders word dit effe maklik ‘n emosielose roete oordra aksie, waarvoor ek minder lus is. So, eerder, sal elke ysterperd soldaat net ‘n kort ‘executive update’ van persoonlike hoogtepunte meedeel. Hier volg myne:
Status – vir albei van ons:
- Valle = 5, 3-2 met Stav wat voorloop (sand is ‘n euwel, maar gelukkig lig daarvan afgekom)
- Km afgele = +/- 4500
- Tyd spandeer op die ysterperde = 72 uur
- Tyd spandeer by grensposte = 15 uur
- Siektes en kwale = geen (‘n paar muskiete het ons al bygekom, maar ons vertrou die outjies was onbesmet en andersins dat die teenmiddels effektief is)
- Huidige posisie: Kigali, Rwanda (2 Julie)
- Volgende bestemming: Uganda (wil omtrent 10 dae hier spandeer en op die nyl river raft, ‘n park besoek en op ‘n safari boottrip gaan, moontlik chimps gaan soek ens)
- Vel begin die Afrika son absorbeer en begin ‘n mooi tan vang
Ons het nogal vinnig deur die res van Zambie beweeg. Twee mooi plekke oornag – ‘n privaat park in die middel van nerens en by ‘n verlate resort op lake Tanyanika wat baie mooi was. Tot en met Tanyanika was die pad nog redelik teer (vol gate, maar teer nietemin), maar die pad op teen die weste van Tanzanie kan werklik bekend staan as die ‘road less travelled by’ – hierdie keer nie deur Frost nie, maar deur die waaghalsige soldate.
Wat kan mens se. Vir 2 manne wat nog eintlik net Sani pas as offroad ervaring het was die 1000km se aanhoudende diepsand, klippe en gate ‘n groot fisiese en sigiese toets. Flip, ek het nie geweet sand is so vrek moeilik op ‘n bike nie! Op hierdie stuk pad swoeg mens heeldag op die fiets aan sowat 200km per dag. Dis belaglik, maar lekker. Dis net jy en die grondpad. 2 van die 4 aande het ons gebushcamp.
Die 1e het die donker ons gevang en het ons moes aanklop by ‘n local boer vir slaapplek. Vrek, die Tanzaniese platteland is vriendelik! Hulle het ons absoluut verwelkom, vir ons tee en brood gegee en ons het die volgende oggend ‘n 2 uur lange begeleide toer van die plaas en al sy werke gekry! Was so great om die trotsheid van die mense se harde hande arbeid te kon ervaar.
Die 2de bushcamp was net so amazing. Ons het letterlik met die bikes die pad verlaat in die bos in. ‘n Hele Afrika landskap was net ons sin! Die watertafel was so hoog dat mens kon grou vir grondwater, wat ons toe gefilter en gebruik het. Het werklik soos ‘n camelman gevoel... vrek cool!
Tans is ons dan in Rwanda. Die land van opeenlopende gras heuwels, die mees digbevolkste land in Afrika met sy 1m posttrauma weeskinders wat die mees onlangste genocide in die geskiedenis se repurkussies ervaar. Tog is die mense vriendelik, die plek ongelooflik skoon en die atmosfeer nie te swaar nie. Ons eet onsself dik aan vars vrugte en was in ons onherkenbare vuil toestand verwelkom deur ‘n engelse gesin waar die oom werk vir ‘n NGO. Was lekker om met die mense te kuier en beter insig oor die land te kry. Die plek klim nogal vinnig in mens se hart in – veral met al die kinders wat so orals is...
Elk geval. Ek kan net se dat alles nog great is, die Kawasakie homself nog mooi gedra en dat my kop lekker besig is met ‘n spul nuwe gedagtes en ervarings. Die Here is goed en seen ons dusver met wonderlike mense... Selfs die tye wat hard is is nog lekker. So, ek kan net se: ma, moenie worry nie!
Saturday, June 20, 2009
From Durban/Pta to Mazabuka (Zambia)
Status updates:
km covered = 1748
riding time = 19 hrs
border time = 3 hrs
packing time = 9 hrs
breakdowns = 0
ailments = 0
bike falls = 0
Not all who wonder are lost. -JRR Tolkien-
OK, so here is our first post en route... Ons het uiteindelik ons perde opgesaal en begin ry! But before we could get going, lots of admin had to be done and it was necessary to tie the loose ends. Duane scrambled to finish off at work, servicing his bike and pack, while I took a whole week off to sort out our visas, vehicle import papers, medication and to move out of the flat. I hate admin and after this, I hate it more...
Though all is well that ends well. Duane left Durban on Sunday morning (14th) for Blue bull land. He was ridden out by 3 mates, one of which has done a similar trip and given us loads of tips. (Thanks Andrew!) On Monday eve we watched a Confed cup match at Loffies with friends before we celebrated our youth on the 16th of June by taking on the long journey into the unknown. Here, too, we had a farewell breakfast with lots of emotion.
Myself and Duane found ourselves being highly stressed and tense about the whole thing as we drove off. I think the greatness of the whole trip (and also the privelage thereof) only hit at this moment. Leaving late, our first day's ride was short and we only made Potties (Potgietersrus/Mokopane) - after doing an extra 100km from missing a turn!
We didn't do much better on day 2, as we got up late, took forever and a day to pack (yes Andrew, even after your warning, we have way too much stuff!! You will be glad to know that thus far we have shedded 4 shirts, 2 shorts, 3 pairs of socks, a soccer ball and some soap. Next may be one of our tents...), and queing hours at GAPSA to sort out Duane's credit card. We only got through the Botswana border at 4pm, while our intended place of stay was another 270km away.
The soldate concurred to push on, but were abrubtly halted by a random shopkeeper at the Caltex just after the border crossing. Little did we know that the shopkeeper, Clinton, has done the Roof of Africa something like 12 times (it is like the Cape Epic of off-road motocross), has his own BMW off-road adventure company, and is probabably the most experienced biker we have ever heard of! Clinton willingly shared biking tips ranging from the recovering a drowned engine to how to handle border officials (without paying our African brothers excessive amounts of money unduly). I think his advise and stories continued for about an hour non-stop and quadrupled our bike knowledge instantly. Clinton also provided us with accommodation and advised us to start early the next day. To scared to disobey, we mechanically agreed while attempting to be best mean bikers we could be.
Equipped with our new knowledge unabound, the rest of Botswana was smooth sailing. We have covered our set route effortlessly, bunnyhopping potholes and swerving between wild animals such as elephants, buck and giraffs with elegance and precision.
Crossing the Great Zambezi by pontoon, we dismounted on the Zambian bank. Here, we were received eagerly by hasslers and border official (and friends of border officials), all, of course, very interested in having a possible cut of some $. After getting 5 different forms and paying various levies, entered Zambia and, shortly afterwards the town of Livingstone, I presume.
The Victoria falls are still majestic. As our Zambian friends put it; when you are close to the falls, it makes you feel alive. And that, friends, I think, is truly how we feel - alive. The journey on a ysterperd is indescribable. You feel close and part of all you enter and pass.
Currently, we find ourselves in Mazabuka (just south of Lusaka), on the Ilovo sugar estate staying with the Stratherns (friends of Duane). We will rest tomorrow and continue on Monday. Will keep you posted.
km covered = 1748
riding time = 19 hrs
border time = 3 hrs
packing time = 9 hrs
breakdowns = 0
ailments = 0
bike falls = 0
Not all who wonder are lost. -JRR Tolkien-
OK, so here is our first post en route... Ons het uiteindelik ons perde opgesaal en begin ry! But before we could get going, lots of admin had to be done and it was necessary to tie the loose ends. Duane scrambled to finish off at work, servicing his bike and pack, while I took a whole week off to sort out our visas, vehicle import papers, medication and to move out of the flat. I hate admin and after this, I hate it more...
Though all is well that ends well. Duane left Durban on Sunday morning (14th) for Blue bull land. He was ridden out by 3 mates, one of which has done a similar trip and given us loads of tips. (Thanks Andrew!) On Monday eve we watched a Confed cup match at Loffies with friends before we celebrated our youth on the 16th of June by taking on the long journey into the unknown. Here, too, we had a farewell breakfast with lots of emotion.
Myself and Duane found ourselves being highly stressed and tense about the whole thing as we drove off. I think the greatness of the whole trip (and also the privelage thereof) only hit at this moment. Leaving late, our first day's ride was short and we only made Potties (Potgietersrus/Mokopane) - after doing an extra 100km from missing a turn!
We didn't do much better on day 2, as we got up late, took forever and a day to pack (yes Andrew, even after your warning, we have way too much stuff!! You will be glad to know that thus far we have shedded 4 shirts, 2 shorts, 3 pairs of socks, a soccer ball and some soap. Next may be one of our tents...), and queing hours at GAPSA to sort out Duane's credit card. We only got through the Botswana border at 4pm, while our intended place of stay was another 270km away.
The soldate concurred to push on, but were abrubtly halted by a random shopkeeper at the Caltex just after the border crossing. Little did we know that the shopkeeper, Clinton, has done the Roof of Africa something like 12 times (it is like the Cape Epic of off-road motocross), has his own BMW off-road adventure company, and is probabably the most experienced biker we have ever heard of! Clinton willingly shared biking tips ranging from the recovering a drowned engine to how to handle border officials (without paying our African brothers excessive amounts of money unduly). I think his advise and stories continued for about an hour non-stop and quadrupled our bike knowledge instantly. Clinton also provided us with accommodation and advised us to start early the next day. To scared to disobey, we mechanically agreed while attempting to be best mean bikers we could be.
Equipped with our new knowledge unabound, the rest of Botswana was smooth sailing. We have covered our set route effortlessly, bunnyhopping potholes and swerving between wild animals such as elephants, buck and giraffs with elegance and precision.
Crossing the Great Zambezi by pontoon, we dismounted on the Zambian bank. Here, we were received eagerly by hasslers and border official (and friends of border officials), all, of course, very interested in having a possible cut of some $. After getting 5 different forms and paying various levies, entered Zambia and, shortly afterwards the town of Livingstone, I presume.
The Victoria falls are still majestic. As our Zambian friends put it; when you are close to the falls, it makes you feel alive. And that, friends, I think, is truly how we feel - alive. The journey on a ysterperd is indescribable. You feel close and part of all you enter and pass.
Currently, we find ourselves in Mazabuka (just south of Lusaka), on the Ilovo sugar estate staying with the Stratherns (friends of Duane). We will rest tomorrow and continue on Monday. Will keep you posted.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
The Journey Begins
All our dreams can come true, if we have the courage to pursue them. -Walt Disney-
Hierdie is dan die begin. Vir die wat nie weet nie, dis nou die begin van my en Duane se 3.5 maande avontuur op ons ysterperde. Ons beplan om die 16de Junie te vertrek en ‘n lus oor die Afrika kontinent deur Botswana, Zambia, Wes Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopie, weer Kenya, oos Tanzanie en Mosambiek te doen.
Hoekom? My beste antwoord is: ‘want ons kan’. Daar is niks wat ons keer nie, so hoekom nie? ‘Nou of nooit’, ‘midlife crises’, ‘avontuurlustig’… is die krete wat ek weergee, maar dalk is dit ook meer as dit, ek weet nie. Hoekom sal mens jouself ontwortel vir rondswerf? Die antwoord ontwyk my, maar ek hou van ‘want ons kan’, al is dit effe Obama agtig. Ek kan wel se dat die motorfiets avontuur wel ‘n droom is van ons wat ons nou gaan verwesenlik. Dit was gedeeltelik geinspireer deur die fliek motorcycle diaries… as jy dit nog nie gekyk het nie, maak ‘n plan!
Net prêt? Ons gaan wel nie net speel nie, en het ‘n hele klomp mense gekontak wie my en Duane se ouers ken. As deel van die ervaring sou ons graag die ‘local’ mense persoonlik wil ervaar en ook sien waarmee mense in Afrika besig is. Ons albei se droom is om nog betrokke te raak en ‘n bydra te lewer, maak nie saak hoe klein nie.
Oor die blog… Vele het gevra dat hulle wil ‘track’ hou met die motorfiets toer en al die gebeure. Ander wat ons in die wereld in gebring het, en nog ander wat ons baie lief het (nieuitsluitend die wat ons die wereld ingebring het nie), is werklik bekommerd. So ons skryf dus vir julle; vriende, ma’s en familie. Dan skryf mens seker ook vir mens self. ‘n Dagboek of so iets. Maar ‘n troetel dagboek naampie soos ‘Little kitty’ is onaanvaarbaar. Ons is immers ouens – nee mans! – op bikes, menende tough ens… Kom ons noem dit eerder niks en kyk wat word dit. Ons sal ‘dit’ dan ook so gereeld as moontlik doen, waar moontlik. We shall also mix our tales, as Duane is for English and me is for Afrikaans. We shall alternate and the updates may be unrelated, so deal with it.
He has the deed half done who has made a beginning. -Horace-
Die voorbereiding… OK, dis nou genoeg vir ‘n inleiding en agtergrond. As ‘n eerste entry tot die dit wil ek gou raak aan ons voorbereidings proses. Baie mense het al so iets aangepak en dus is dit heel doenbaar. Dit beteken wel nie dat dit nie vrek GROOT is vir ons nie! Ons vat albei unpaid leave (yip, baie geseend om dit te kan doen), trek die handrem op en parkeer ons lewens, en klim op onbekende en ongetemde ysterperde. Dit wil se dat nie een van ons nog van te vore bike gery, gefix of iets van geweet het nie!
Dus was alles dusver ‘n goeie leerskool vir ons twee cubicle junkies. Ons moes oplees en rond vra en vir ‘n slag self bietjie hande vuil maak (meisies love mos gries onder die naels!). Dis heeltemal iets anders, fisies, en daarom ook lekker!
Ons het selfs ‘n test-run Sani pas uit gevat. Albei ek en Stav gee toe dat ons meer gekry het as waarvoor ons ‘gebargain’ het! Dit was tegnies moeilik en ons het beide ons valle ingekry. Nie te min, was dit ongelooflik! Ek kan nie die adrenalien gevoel teen die berge uit beskryf nie, maar dit was great! Die Drakensberg landskap, die kameraderie, die opstaan na die val, die Sani pas stempel in die paspoort en die koue bier by die hoogste pub in Afrika is alles saam ‘n wenner kombinasie. Die trippie het my die nodige selfversekering gegee vir wat voorle en was ‘n goeie adrenalien inspuiting vir dit wat nog kom! Flip, ek kan nie wag nie!
Tot met ons vertrek le daar nog ‘n hele paar reelings voor. Dis versekering, visas, spares, tool kits, medikasie en first aid, inentings, kamp gereedskap, op pak en trek, UNISA studies uitsorteer, en nog ‘n paar ander goedjies. En ek love mos admin en is so goed daarmee… My sakke voel verder asof hulle gate in het met al die uitgawes, maar ek glo dit gaan die moeite werd wees! Ek kan nie wag nie!
Ek weet wel alreeds een ding, en dit is dat ek nie so iets alleen sal wil doen nie. ‘n Dag alleen op die fiets Sani pas toe was lank genoeg. Mens moet sulke goed met mense deel en ek is dankbaar vir Duane en dat ek die vooreg het om so iets saam met ‘n goeie vriend te kan doen. Ek is nogal bly dat ek nie soos die outjie van ‘Into the wild’ moes maande swerf, riviere kruis, in Alaska se gebergtes moes invlug, myself vergiftig en, heelaas, doodgaan van die honger om dit te besef nie Ek is seker ek en Duane gaan nog diep bande bou.
Nou ja, dis dan al vir eers. Ons sal weer skryf.
Die ysterperd soldate
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
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